Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
